From Joel Millman of the
wall street Journal New York
The following report was received from our man
in Baghdad, which you may find interesting
I went to check Naim Dangoor's home next to the
Alwiya Club, the British club. Turns out this is
next door to the Palestine and Sheraton hotels smack
on Firdos Sq. (where Saddam's statue was pulled
down). Abu Nowas Street is on the backside of both
hotels, and the club. Two houses down (I think it's
actually three), it appears there is Mr. Dangoors'
family home. It's not very impressive anymore, although
apparently the people who moved in after they left
sold it to the government and the government redesigned
it.
Abu Nowas Street used to be filled with homes owned
by Jews. It used to be Baghdad's nicest avenue (and
could be again easily). It faces the Tigris. In
the old days, there used to be parks that faced
the river with benches and outdoor restaurants,
where lovers could stroll and families have a nice
evening out. Then Saddam basically prevented anyone
from building there, and moved everyone out, because
it was opposite his Republican Palace grounds. People
are hopeful the street, named after a hell-raising
poet and drinker, will again become a center of
activity.
I spoke to two Dangoor neighbours. One is Nadha
Bhajad Selim, a 35-year-old Christian woman. She
says that when she was growing up, her parents told
her that the Jews in the neighbourhood had all left,
and that it was the beginning of the end of Abu
Nowas street's glory days. She said she vaguely
remembers the family from her childhood, but I'm
not sure that can be true if he left in the early
60s.
Then I spoke to a crotchety old man who lives next
door. He said the Muslims have been sending back
the rent faithfully to Jewish families. He said
the government never had anything against the Jews
and that they left "of their own accord."
There was a Jewish market, Hanoun (sp?), which he
says was sold "for a very good price - at the
top of the market." He remembers Naim's father
Eliahu (sp?). Is that right? Asked if he remembers
Naim, he says: "Did he expect anyone to remember
him after all these years?" Asked if they would
welcome the Jews back, he refuses to answer. He
also refuses to give his name.
The Lawee home is just off Abu Nowas and was the
French embassy until sanctions. The French pulled
out, so I hear, and the Romanians became temporary
houseguests. But they might be back. The house is
quite something. Very stately, two story home with
lovely arches and a balcony. I went to the Mayer
Taweigg Synagogue - the last working Jewish prayer
house in Iraq, founded in 1942. There I met 90-year-old
Tawfiq Sofer, the oldest living link to the community.
He never married, and his brother and sisters left
Iraq in the early 1950s to live in Iran, Israel
and England. He never wanted to leave because he
says he had business to attend to. He also says
Saddam didn't treat the Jews badly, despite his
virulent anti-Zionism. His caretaker, a young 30-year-old
Muslim named Muhammad Jassim, says Saddam got the
word out a decade ago that anyone who hurt the Jews
in Baghdad would pay a heavy price. It was quiet
until just recently, when some members of the Islamic
Dawa religious party told people in the neighbourhood
that it was time to get rid of the remaining Jews.
He's not sure where he heard this or how it started.
The old man, very sweet and speaks English, said:
"For so many years, I never saw anyone. Now
a few people have come to say hello to me. This
makes me so happy," he says, dressed in striped
pyjamas. He is full of gratefulness that Muhammad
takes care of him. During the war, Muhammad never
left the synagogue, and after the fall of Saddam's
forces he fired several warning shots from his pistol
to keep looters at bay.
Asked if he wants to leave Iraq, he says: "Where
can I go? I may as well die here."
About Jews in Baghdad, Sofer says: "Some of
us will always be here.